Sunday, August 03, 2008

Bighorn Lake to Tully Lake

Our fourth day was the shortest backpacking day of the trip. Joe had to leave as early as he could to make the long hike from Bighorn Lake to the McGee Creek trailhead. The remaining three of us were going to climb a knapsack pass above nearby Rosy Finch Lake to look back into the Laurel Creek drainage - a different Laurel Creek than the one above Convict Lake near Mammoth.

The morning was warm and calm, like all of our mornings. The weather on the trip was perfect. There were almost no clouds the entire trip, and the rains preceding our trip had scrubbed the skies clean of the smoke from all California's wildfires this year. It made for perfect reflections in the water.


The hike from Bighorn to Rosy Finch Lake is an easy gambol through grassy faults criss-crossing the glaciated granite bedrock. Rosy Finch Lake, just like Bighorn Lake, fills a granitic glacial bowl with little room to spare; its outlet stream spills right over the granite dam that creates the lake. This is really beautiful country, a melting pot of brilliant blues, whites and greens.

The pass we checked out that day is a potential backpacking route from Grinnell Lake to Rosy Finch Lake. It was one of the possible routes we could have taken on our trip, but we decided not to because the ascent from the Grinnell Lake side looked steep on the topo maps. It turned out that it was very steep, and it's a much easier ascent from Rosy Finch, but it was still too far for us to make it to Grinnell Lake and back, and then over Bighorn Pass to Tully Lake all in the same day.

Libby sitting on top of a rock on the pass we dayhiked.
http://flickr.com/photos/rowleypics/2727327408/in/set-72157606520422797/

So, we enjoyed the view from the pass and then went back, put on our packs, and headed to Tully Lake. The descent was a talus scramble that we alleviated by striking out across a snow field that allowed us to skip about half of the talus. At the bottom of the snow field we had our only lifer of the trip - a White-tailed Ptarmigan. A little baby grouse scurried by our feet, and after some patient searching Dad found the mother hiding in plain sight.

The mother White-tailed Ptarmigan using its cryptic coloration to blend in to its surroundings.
http://flickr.com/photos/rowleypics/2727913215/in/set-72157606520422797/

At the time I thought it was an out-of-habitat Sooty (Blue) Grouse, a bird that specializes in high mountain forest edges, and is the only native grouse in the higher altitudes of the Sierras. We were, however, miles from the nearest true forest, and it nagged a bit on my mind while we were up there. As soon as I had time at home, I started doing some research on Ptarmigans. Back in the early '70s, the Department of Fish and Game released about 70 White-tailed Ptarmigans into upper montane forests around Sonora Pass. The birds found their way up into the alpine meadows around Yosemite, where they are still apparently the most heavily concentrated. From there they've spread south, occupying suitable habitat - high alpine meadows - where ever they can find it. The Sierras offer a challenge to their survival, however, with heavier snow packs that last longer than the other mountain ranges they inhabit (the Rockies and north) and thus inhibit breeding, and dryer summers, that limit the kind of forage they require. As a result, they exist in the Sierras in the sparsest population density of any population, and during the summer they're most common around melting snow-packs; just the place we found one.


Anyway, we found a great campsite at Tully Lake. It was a horse camp in between the lake and the waterfall that comes down from Red and White into Tully's outlet - young Fish Creek. The only real drawback at Tully Lake was that there were swarms of mosquitoes. As the sun set, they came out in force, with clouds hovering around each of us looking for any chink the mosquito nets offered or for some spot where the DEET would rub off. We probably got the majority of our mosquito bites here. Still, it's hard to complain about mosquitoes when you're surrounded by such wonderful beauty.

Pictures on Flickr, as always. Click here: http://flickr.com/photos/rowleypics/sets/72157606520422797/

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